The gloves are off...

Reposting: (originally posted 8/28/07)

"A man of honor does not,... compromise a young woman by being her constant escort, and her's alone, for a long time, without having some serious intention. A man who will do this and then tell her of rumors of their supposed engagement which have reached him, at the same time disclaiming any motive except friendship, is not a fit "friend" for any girl; and one who has previously considered him a friend should not need further proof of the undesireableness of such friendship as he is capable of bestowing. The proper course for him to pursue would be to discontinue his attentions, or at least, offer them less frequently."

--Good Manners (Butterick Publishing Company: 1888)

I should be ashamed to admit this... but this post was delayed because I am hopelessly addicted to a reality show. Yes, I have fallen prey to Scott Baio is 45... and Single. Wow, how low can I sink...? Well, I must say, I was riveted until the very last moment of tonight's final episode, and wow, was it worth it! Please tell me I'm not alone...


Thanks to Diane's wonderful gesture of intellectual generosity, I am once again re inspired to try the gloves. While I am in peaceful North Carolina on vacation this week, I will attempt them again. Since this is a hand-sewing project, it is portable...

I'll be visiting the William Ivey Long exhibit I mentioned this week - can't wait. I'll report on it when we get back after Labor Day.




...And the dress is done! It really loses its magic in these rather drab pictures, so I can only convey how it makes me feel in words...

The dress is linen, and I'm a poor photographer, so the fabric really photographs as bumpy, and is hard to read, but here it is on me and on the dress form, since my figure is drastically different at the bust line. I love low cargo pockets - perfect for comfort and easy access.

I stand corrected!

This is my daughter's drawing. She calls it "News Reporter". Think she's aware that women are being made a bit sexier to report the news? She doesn't miss a thing, that kid!

So, this post is about things I need to clarify, correct, or comment on.

You know I'm not much of a knitter, nor do I get too excited over what I perceive to be common, everyday knitted items. But, just when I thought there was nothing new under the sun, I saw this...

Children's knitted "neckies" from Oeuf. Mind you, this news item was recently reported by the www.Designmom.com blog, so maybe it isn't new, but it sure is new to me. What a great idea... and affordable, to boot!

Ever realize after you've written a blog post that some aspect of it was wrong or misguided in some way? Well, I have been meaning to do this for a while, and here goes...

On fabric shopping in Queens (in New York City)...

This is to correct my claims to some of you after writing the New York Fabric stores post. If you don't shop with any particular requirements, expectations, or time limits, shopping in the outer boroughs of NYC can be fun. Once you are looking for specific colors, quality customer service, specific fabric types, a reasonable guarantee of certain fiber content, or any kind of consistency in their offerings (like, you might want some more tomorrow or next week), you should catch the next thing smokin' into Manhattan!

On Glovemaking...

As a follow-up to my first post on this topic, I can see absolutely no reason to make gloves from a fabric with no stretch. This is more of a challenge than anyone needs. I was going for handmade, not homemade, and I never got there. I wanted to challenge myself... well, consider me CHALLENGED. Enough... Into the UFO pile they go, and the next ones will stretch!

On the Golden Mean, mathematical formulas, and beauty...

This whole post should be rescinded. I now firmly believe that there are no mathematical formulas for beauty. The study of it is a waste of time, in my opinion.

And... what was I thinking?

Keeping this sofa cover kid-friendly for even one week was just about impossible. Two super-active kids? The answer is leather. That's it.

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For all the single ladies... a "glove" story

My blog mission hasn't changed much in the years since its inception, but my readership is growing rapidly, so I am re-dedicating myself to its purpose. I want to make sure that what I write is useful, entertaining, thought-provoking and/or inspiring. Since my schedule doesn't allow me to work as much as I'd like, I need this outlet, and, thank Goodness, people are responding. Since what I sew or create usually has some bigger idea behind it, which I may or may not be able to convey clearly in a blog post... I'll continue to share what I feel I can share in a useful way.

Some projects just take years.

I am proud to say that my glove project (see previous posts: 1, 2, 3, and 4) 5 years in the making, is finally near completion. Now, the pattern seems "easy", the pattern has been tweaked and cutsomized for my hands, and the fabric choice and color has been made. Three tries since my last post, I decided that sewing them completely by hand, (no machine intervention) using a microfiber fabric with the right amount of "cushiness" (one sueded side), with some surface embellishment, yet to be determined, is the right way to go. What you see above is try #2 on the thumb, which is the hardest part to get right, in my opinion. Outside, vs. inside stitching? Both, actually. Inside stitching for construction, and satin stitches on the outside, over the seams, for beauty. That's what got me the best results.

When finished, they will be worn everywhere.

Before our daughter was born, I commuted on the subway from Forest Hills, Queens into lower Manhattan for work at Vogue Patterns, and I played games with myself to pass the time. One of the games was the "eavesdropping" game. I closed my eyes and listened to conversations, taking mental notes, and then I compared the common threads between the different topics.

I usually found that at the end of the workday, most of the conversations were the "Why everyone else at work is an idiot", "What no one understands (but me, of course)", "I know my boss hates me" or the "When will I get my due" rants. It seems that a good night's sleep would inspire optimism, and the people who were talking would start the day, cheerfully chattering about their lives outside of work. But among them, was also a good share of somber faces, hunched shoulders, and closed eyes.

Now a new year has just begun, and more than a week has passed since I started writing this blog post. I wonder why all of a sudden it seems that it seems everyone is having the same conversations all around me... over and over and over again. I felt I needed to finish this post, if only to get my thoughts out there while the conversations are still happening.

At the beginning of each year, it seems that women move into a self-examining, excessively critical mode. It can be unhealthy. Sometimes, it hurts to listen.

And I'm not just hearing it on the streets... I'm hearing it from peaple I know and love. I am noticing this trend among my single friends. Intelligent, beautiful, accomplished women, who lack partners, and are feeling lonely, sad, and confused about it. I notice that they seem to be blaming themselves for their singlehood.

Some people I know, have even taken to the airways to broadcast their singlehood. A cousin of mine, was on a makeover show, throwing a "divorce party" on the Style network's Big Party Plan-off. My friend (of about a quarter-century, now...whew!) Kysha, has appeared on a talk show to talk about her dating life.

This is not meant to be advice... I am not presenting myself as a dating guru here... I am sure there are plenty of quality men and women in the world, and there are nice, upstanding, lovely people at every turn. Yes, being older means some extra baggage, divorces, children might also be in that package, but, really, doesn't everyone want to find someone who was already alive, vibrant, and hopeful before you met? You're not "settling", you're just acknowledging that you are both grown-ups, who have been living grown-up lives for a while.

To quote the God character in Bruce Almighty, "If you want to see a miracle, be the miracle..." To paraphrase... Since like attracts like... ifyou want a quality partner, just continue to be a quality candidate.

A mate, like the perfect pair of gloves, serves to shield and help you through storms, add beauty and comfort to your everyday activities, and fit you perfectly. As part of that pair, you would do the same for your mate. It doesn't matter how many you try on... when you find that right one... you'll know it.

P.S.

Oh, and when you do, the aphrodisiac cookbook by Isable Allende (see Amazon slideshow at right) wouldn't hurt, either.


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Wouldn't it be Glover-ly????

The glove project continues... if only in my imagination!

I happened upon an old issue of Piecework Magazine, in which the picture of a PERFECT glove from the 17th century was featured. I can't cite the publication date now, since it is packed and taped into a box for the move now, but this reinspired me...

Pattern Companies

When I worked for a pattern company some years ago, I accumulated quite a list of other pattern companies. There really is so much out there, and a quality, appropriately-sized pattern with clear directions is worth its weight in gold!

First, these are the standard companies:

Butterick
Vogue
Simplicity
McCalls
Burda
Marfy
Green Pepper

Just really pretty:
La Fred
The Pattern Studio

Historical and Ethnic:

Folkwear
Amazon Drygoods
Vintage Pattern Lending Library
Harper House

Out-of-Print and collectible:

Patterns from the Past

Corsets:

Farthingales

Fit-specific:

JSM Patterns

I know the owner, and have seen her demonstrate her methods in person and on Susan Khalje's TV show. She absolutely knows what she's talking about!

Connie Crawford

She specializes in plus size clothing, has designed some special patterns for Butterick, and is a great person. I have her book on pattern grading, which has been very helpful.

Unique

This company will take a pattern and customize it for you. Well worth the trouble, if you would prefer to leave it to the experts.

Comfort:
Park bench Patterns

Gloves, handbags and hats:

Pattern Studio

I've never tried their patterns, but they have a glove collection that really intrigues me...

There are so many more than these, but I suppose this is enough...

Glover-ly fingers!

I have really enjoyed "trying my hand" at glovemaking. Ha! I can see what a lovely pair of gloves this pattern will make, and the excruciatingly careful attention to detail it requires. The next post you will see on this subject, will probably be me working on (or having completed) a real pair of gloves using this pattern.

For now, I understand the construction, thanks to the muslin process. I couldn't wrap my brain around it on vacation. The assembly of the fourchettes was impossible to understand on paper (couldn't put my finger on it - ha!), but much easier to understand with actual fabric in my hands.



The manipulation of the pieces to get accurate and attractive stitches is outrageously difficult, I think. Now that I've got the thumb understood, this muslin assembly was just quickly done, to see if I could get the construction happening the way it is supposed to look.



In my experience, the stitching that will give me the look I want, is not one of the suggested methods the pattern provides. For me, I need to baste my 1/8" seam together, and then hand sew on the right side of the glove with what I would call a fine, closely-spaced diagonal "stab and wrap" stitch, if that makes sense.

The fingertip shape is very important to the femininity and grace of the glove. A rounded tip is not what the pattern would yield, so they need to be re-shaped.

It seems that the biggest reward of making a custom pair of gloves is that a truly perfect fit is something you rarely (if ever) experience in a glove, and really unique gloves are such an indulgence. This project also has the benefit of being small and portable. And... if you like to drag things out, you could really spend an outrageous amount of time sewing them.

If you are a true glutton for punishment, tatted lace edges would create an unbearably luxurious pair...

Yes, it would be Glover-ly! (Thumb)

I am in an insanely bad mood today.

It seems there are obstacles at every turn, so I am just taking some time to decompress, and work on my glove. Here, I am sharing my first lessons with you.

This post is part of my ongoing quest, which began with "Wouldn't it be Glover-ly???" about a month ago.

Okay, so the glove challenge is considerably complicated - at least to me! I have read and re-read the instructions, and used the information Diane so generously shared with me to get a better understanding of how gloves are constructed, and my muslin atttempt has taught me volumes!!!!

Okay - they give a bias and straight grain layout. My muslin is cotton twill, since it is strong, easy to manipulate, and the bias has a nice, but resilient give. I used the bias layout.




The first step after cutting and marking was to manipulate the thumb piece, and insert it in that crazy claw shape opening on the hand piece. I have done this three times, making different mistakes every time, but now I see how it goes...


I think this is the hardest part of the construction, so maybe I'm over the hump...

This is just my muslin, mind you, so the hand stitching isn't perfect or careful, nor does the thread match...



Here's what I now know.

- The top of the thumb has to be stitched and clipped into a graceful curve, which is not the shape the pattern gives you.

- Manipulating the points of the thumb piece is very careful, precise work, that must be done with a very tight, accurate hand stitch. Bias is great for this piece, since, when you bend your thumb, the movement is comfortable, and the tension lines bounce back, without leaving permanent strain marks on your gloves.

- The thumb is a bit tall for me, so I will alter it down when I cut the real thing.

By the way, my day got a whole lot better - some new and exciting things are happening for my family!

Another glove story...

This may be basic info for some, but since I knew none of it, I share my findings with you now...

I can now say "I get it" as far as what the pattern wants me to do, but I'm not sure the result will be too pretty, without a bit of a glove education first. If you know of a good book, (better than my usual trial and error) please let know!



The glove size is determined by the measurement of the circumference of the hand (without the thumb)at the knuckles. So, mine measures 7 1/2", thus I am a 7 1/2 glove. The pattern I have just happens to be my size...

This pattern comes in the package pre-cut, and there are no cutting lines or written instructions for anything on the tissue, so it looks really spare...

All the guidance you can hope to find is on the instruction sheet (click pictures to enlarge). They are written in the same casual way you might jot down a recipe for a friend; it assumes you know the rest...

Wouldn't it be Glover-ly????

"When in doubt as to local customs, put a pair of gloves in your pocket, and if you cannot judge with certainty whether others will wear them, be on the safe side by putting them on before you enter the drawing room."

-Good Manners (Butterick Publishing Company, 1888)

I have an obsession with gloves, although I almost never wear them. I am fascinated by the making of gloves and the completely foreign shape of the pattern pieces! My beloved glove pattern from 1943, which I am absolutely baffled by, but hope to figure out someday, calls me to create something as lovely as the illustrations on the pattern envelope. The instructions are so spare, I wonder if they are joking.




After reading the "instructions" again a few more times, I have determined that the pattern company makes the following assumptions; that the gloves will be sewn by hand (which appears to be necessary, due to the shape of the pieces), that you know what type of fabric to purchase (there is no guidance for fabric at all - but it certainly shouldn't fray), that you know what it means to "glove stitch", and that you know how to determine your glove size. Okay, so I'll have to do a bit of research and make a muslin before I can tackle this one. My goal is to make gloves with embroidery travelling up the fingers. This will take time. Maybe my pattern doesn't need to be from 1943, huh?

For online eye-candy, the Martin Margiela artisinal clothing featured on Inhabitat.com is so inspiring and beautifully weird, that I felt I needed to share... Check out the top made of overlapping gloves!