Everywhere a foreigner...

It seems everywhere I go, I am asked, "Where are you from?" But somehow, I know this means I am an outsider everywhere.

Often called an "out of the box" thinker, I can no longer find the box. I'll need to be okay with that, since, apparently, it isn't going to change. It isn't something I learned, chose, or decided to become. It just is what it is.

I haven't worn a watch in over a decade. It has been so long now, that I no longer consider that unusual. My reasoning is, while it is often important to know what time it is, it is almost never necessary to know exactly what minute or second it is. When I need that kind of precision, I refer to a stopwatch or a wall clock with more hands. I see no reason to be constantly tethered to a timekeeper. If I leave for a destination on time, barring circumstances beyond my control, I will arrive on time. Checking my watch frequently won't help me to get anywhere faster, or change anything at all. I found it liberating when I first began, and never saw a reason to go back to wearing one again.


My son is afraid of his new shirt. Really afraid. Like, he runs and screams at the site of it. I can laugh about it, but it kinda sucks after the time investment. Somehow, it doesn't look like his other shirts, and he finds that disturbing. My daughter had a great suggestion, though... She thinks I should show him some cartoons with the Droopy character, so that he can get used to, and possibly start to like the idea of the shirt. We'll see.


Subscribe in a reader Add to del.ici.ous

I'm giving a talk on fashion...

On April 28th, I'll be giving a talk to a group of girls, ages 12-17... and I must admit, I have an AGENDA. I'm very excited about it.

Let's face it, I'm getting older (more mature?) and I am seeing the way adolescent and teen girls dress nowadays, and I just want to do my best to let them know that clothing is personal expression, communication, and that it is POWERFUL. It can set or remove boundaries, help identify you as part of a group, or NOT part of one. It can show your own artistic flair, flatter your figure, protect you, restrict you, or make you feel cozy, comfortable, or athletic. I want them to know that expensive doesn't mean "better" (although it can), but your pocketbook doesn't limit how creative you can be. I want to show them that dressmaking and alterations are great skills to learn for their personal wardrobes, and that celebrities can be inspiration, as long as you understand that clothing also needs to be practical for your own life.

I wish I could also hold a bonfire for some of the more popular items I wish would just go away... but maybe that's taking things a bit too far.

Subscribe in a reader Add to del.ici.ous

Waisted Effort

It is no secret that I don't believe in making things you can easily buy. I have long been purse-challenged, and have made the occasional all-purpose bag, which I usually ending up carrying for years beyond its intended life.

And, although I really try to be stylish, the fact is, no one has topped the utilitarian tool that is known as "The Fanny Pack". But you really can't be more out of style than that, can you? Life with my disabled son requires two hands, and I am constantly flipping my purse over my shoulder, tossing it aside to help tie a shoe lace, or steady him before climbing a staircase...

I thought my solution would be to make some sort of invisible fanny pack that I could rig below my waist, and live my hands-free lifestyle again in the Spring, but it turns out, someone has made something I can and would actually buy. they are called "Waist purses". Am I the last to see these?

The link, with very sharp, enlargeable pictures, is below. I'm a fan of the black lace-up.

La Cintura Waist Purse

And, since they come in leather or suede, I can just keep one for a long time.

Get this... you can wear it around your waist, over the shoulder, or across the chest, like a messenger bag. Anyone wondering what to get me for my upcoming birthday? Hint, hint...

And what a cute name it has... "La Cintura"!

So great, I hope this starts a fashion revolution...
Subscribe in a reader Add to del.ici.ous

Superheroes

It is no secret that I am in LOVE with the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

I am really looking forward to the Superheroes exhibit this May, and I think it is a truly creative theme.

As superheroes enjoy a surge in mass popularity, The Costume Institute at The Metropolitan Museum of Art will explore the symbolic and metaphorical associations between these fictional characters and fashion in Superheroes: Fashion and Fantasy, an exhibition at the Museum from May 7 through September 1, 2008. The exhibition will feature approximately 60 ensembles including movie costumes, avant-garde haute couture, and high-performance sportswear to reveal how the superhero serves as the ultimate metaphor for fashion and its ability to empower and transform the human body.

-From the Met's Press Release page. Full text accessible by clicking here.


Subscribe in a reader Add to del.ici.ous

blog.mode: addressing fashion

Yesterday, I had "Mommy's day out", and went to the Metropolitan Museum. I love being able to stroll leisurely through the exhibits in peace, without a time limit, with the freedom to think, all the while being reminded that absolutely anything is worth doing well.

I was seriously contemplating "retiring" from the dressmaking biz after my current clients' projects are done, since I have been feeling so restricted by my client's budgets as well as my own, pushing me to skimp on the quality of materials, amount of time I can dedicate, trying to force the most economical layouts in an effort to keep prices low...

Well, this exhibit changed my mind. I just have to rededicate myself to the best quality workmanship, work schedule and materials the budget allows, not an approximation of something better.

I stopped in on the Blog.mode exhibit, which was fabulous. It was truly inspiring. I almost wept at seeing this amazing creation by Charles Worth,



and this wild Miyake number.



The pictures don't do them justice, at all.

Seeing these creations up close, I could actually feel the hands that made them. There was a uniqueness, a specificity. The beauty of this exhibit was overwhelming. What made it even more exciting, was that visitors were invited to submit comments on the exhibit's blog. Now, I'm sure no visitor will go back and read all of the posts, but the experience of "participating" in this way, added a whole new dimension to the exhibit, inspiring conversations between strangers, and an interactive feeling that you never otherwise experience in that environment.

Fellow New Yorkers and tourists, I suggest you visit. The exhibit is on until mid-April. After that, they will have a "Super heroes" exhibit! On display, costumes for various super heroes... another great idea.


Subscribe in a reader Add to del.ici.ous

Hype/Over-hype?

A-list designers who created custom frocks for the celebrities expected to attend the Golden Globes are going to miss a golden opportunity this year. As an article in today's USA Today states, there are designers who have actually gone through the pain of fitting custom dresses that may never be worn. That's gotta hurt.

What I won't miss, though, is the instant knock-off and imitation frenzy that big awards show precipitate. It just feeds into our celebrity and fame-obsessed culture, and I guess I am in favor of anything that helps tone that aspect down. There is so much media hype about nonsense these days...

Ready to wear just doesn't compare to custom. Don't try to look like J-Lo, Jessica Alba, whoever the "it" girl of the monent is. You will be disappointed. Please strive to look like the best version of yourself. I have a feeling most people reading this blog already know that. ;)

Speaking of hype...

Now, you tell me, is the "Kindle" just hype or is it revolutionary?



I love this idea. Seems like a real treat for any information-addict. If you haven't heard about it yet, you'll have to click the link, since I can't adequately describe it.

But hey, let's say it breaks... have you lost your whole library?

Can you believe it is sold out already? Or... is that hype?

Subscribe in a reader Add to del.ici.ous

Beware... fashion and video game lovers

I used to have a problem. A serious addiction.

I was a video game fanatic.

Now, they have come out with the perfect marriage of video game and fashion. I have loved the Sims forever... but have no time for them now. This version could seriously lure me back to the dark side.

But I will not buy it... promise.

Is it time yet???

This thought was inspired by Threads #74. Forget about the garage attendant-look, here... that's not where I'm going with this.

I love overalls.

Sorry...

But I do!

So if I can do some overalls, similar in shape to these, with a lot more sizzle, shaped waist, and a more elegant front opening that doesn't point "you-know-where", has enough time passed since the 80's to pull it off in a way that looks "new" again?

Okay, don't answer that.

I'll have to make my own decision here. If I do spiky boots, a strong lipstick, and my hair in semi-wild ringlet/crinkles, it would work. I'm thinking denim...

A promise to myself....

Today, I promised myself I would reduce my personal fabric stash to what could be contained in three plastic storage bins. I barely got the top on the last one, but when I sat on it, and heard that gentle click, I knew I was victorious.

Funny thing, when I took inventory, I could really see that I think of fabrics in commbinations. Many of the fabrics I love don't stand alone, but some magic combo (even if only in my imagination) makes it dance, vibrate, sing...

Here are some of my faves...



This is for my son's bedding... I've had it for years, but I haven't truly been inspired to use it until now.


A lively green slubby silk...






You would think I really have a thing for purple.. but oddly enough, I just love purple when it is a particularly regal looking fabric.



This ribbed knit will become the "turtle" of a turtleneck, worn with a lively blue croped jacket made of the wool beside it.



This motif is fun - needs to be a button-down shirt.




I don't know why this is, but denim has really changed over the years. The quality of these old denims (maybe 30 years or so?) is so much better. Don't worry, I am not the original owner. They were from the stash of a beloved client who passed away.



I'm not a plaid girl, but I love this one...



And these red waves on silk call out to be showcased against black denim. Love it!

I am usually dreaming of colors that are not poular in the current palette. I can usually accurately forecast what the upcoming colors will be, but maybe that is because I've always spent so much time in NYC's fashion district.

For the Spring, I think coral, turquoise, and colors of the sea will be popular here on the east coast. Let's see if that happens...

The urge not to purge... (Part III)

Happy Halloween! (Well, almost) I made this blouse when I was about 19 years old, and wore it until I turned 30. This is a strange example of a two-layered top that worked so well, that it belongs in the "happy accident" category. The orange fabric was a poly chiffon, (believe it or not)and I sewed two fabric layers as one, with a lightweight black challis-like fabric beneath. I made a hidden snap closure for the front. Yes, it was loud... and I loved it! I miss it. I usually got only a few wears out of it - around halloween, against an all-black outfit... I do still have the pattern... I would need the perfect fabric, though.







This pattern was never a candidate for the Ebay purge. Despite the frumpy, weird series of photos on the front of this pattern envelope, this is one of my very favorite patterns. I made the top (pictured in a grey fabric), in a blue washable silk with an "outer-spacey" splatter-dyed effect, and it was the most comfortable, flowy, feminine top in the world. I just retired mine (now, 12 years old) this summer! This whole pattern works really well for me...

Urge to purge... NOT!!! (Part II)

More things I considered Ebaying...




And when I make it, let's hope I feel as good in it as that model (in the middle) looks in it!





I love the mature, exaggeratedly conservative look of this pattern.

Urge to purge... or not? (Part I)

I have considered and reconsidered putting some patterns on Ebay for two days, and today... they all go right back in the stash. I'm just not ready... I'll have to get to these someday.

I thought I'd share them with you, though, because they are interesting... It will take a few posts to cover them all, so let's just call this one "Part One"!



Did you know DVF developed a pattern for Butterick? I have never sewn it, and I don't know why... I believe I will, but heck, I said that ten years ago, didn't I?




The next pattern intrigues me. I can't quite figure out what is going on with this jacket, and I really want to make it, with a really rich combination of jewel-toned colors. Then... I'll need an event to wear it to!

Strappity-do-da!

Oddly enough, as a follow up to the simple solutions to common clothing problems post, I just came across yet another good solution to the bra-strap dilemma. And this one is of particular benefit to the non-sewer...

What is it? Strong beaded bra straps, in a rainbow of colors, to complement any outfit where pesky bra straps might be a problem. This would definitely work in New York in the summertime... in fact, I wish I could hand them out on the street corners to every fashion "don't" who passes by.

Full disclosure: I had the pleasure of "meeting" (virtually) the owner today, and was impressed by her enthusiasm. I was NOT asked to post about it, by the way. By providing both jobs AND day care, this business helps a group of Colombian women to earn incomes for their families, and I dig that.

Love the name, love the purpose, feel good about this idea... Hope it continues to grow into other products.

Le "Smoking"

Today, I invite you to take a look at YSL's photo journal, (click "Private View") describing how their tuxedo style jacket is made. The beautiful description and lovely detailed photographs really help you to see the quality of these garments. I used to walk past the boutique windows on Madison Avenue almost daily, and the beauty of Yves Saint Laurent's garments often moved me almost to tears.

Climbing down from my high horse...

Recently, I posted "Who are You Wearing?", a short entry featuring a photo of a Eva Gabor wearing a leopard coat. I went on to mention a BBC article that explores the plight of garment and textile workers in impoverished countries, and how their labor provides us with $5 T-shirts.

So, I took a short trip this weekend, and, while on that trip, had a moment to take some deep breaths, and thought..."Hey, wait a minute...who said that everyone who works to make high-priced goods is fairly compensated?" And a strange connection popped into my head.

Long ago, when I was a college student, a friend of mine wrote a truly incredible term paper on the danger of "truth". To illustrate his point, he looked at great leaders -- Martin Luther King, Gandhi, JFK, etc. He pointed out that these individuals were a threat to no one as long as they spoke for a specific segment of the population.

The bigger picture point of it all is that no person... not a woman, not a man, not a race, not an age, not a socio-economic status or geographical location, makes any person inferior to another. No one deserves less than fair wages for his/her labor, and anyone who contributes to a profit-making enterprise should share in the wealth that work helps to generate. So, while it is common to champion the cause of the underrepresented group of the "moment", the fact is, injustices are all around us, all the time.

In Wilmington, NC, where my in-laws live, the Bellamy Mansion is a beautifully restored Civil War-era estate, featuring the work of so many who were not yet allowed to fully participate in the economy. I bought a lovely book there, entitled "Stitched from the Soul" by Gladys-Marie Fry, documenting slave quilts of the Antebellum South. The author writes elequently of the stitches, the tears, and blood as "time markers" of the everyday events of their lives, stitched into the quilts. Denied the opportunity and often, the ability to write, the slaves stitched their journals into the quilts. Nowadays, locating the quilts themselves is problematic, but harder still, is locating the written data to document their origin.

So, it is easy to point at people in a far away country, and take up their cause, but what about the daily injustices all around us? Some slaves had quilting as an art form, a way to tell stories... I wonder about the stories, talents, outlets for artistic expression of the people who help to make our $5 T-shirts?

Creative artists

"The charm of a golden sunset, to a real admirer, is not complete without silence. A voice dispels it, even though that voice be as sweet as the silvery nest of a forest-bird - a charm in itself, but inharmonious with that entrancing the vision.

So in Art. Although we are obliged to dally with the practical to reach the ideal, no words can add to the enchantments of artistic productions. They surround the worker with an influence that is like a dream, and in it he lives, with Genius for his master and Silence for his companion."

- Needle-Craft: Artistic and Practical (Butterick Publishing Company, 1889)


In New York City, we live with so much noise. Constant noise. To make it worse, it seems every artist within spitting distance of a microphone must over-explain his art. This is why I love to go to the beautifully quiet exhibits tucked away in our city's fabulous museums and galleries. No words, unless you seek them out.

One example of a visual feast, perfectly presented, is the Luxury exhibit at FIT. This display of gorgeous garments in the gentle light and silence of the gallery is a fabulous place to stop, examine, and truly appreciate the art of beautiful craftsmanship.

Have a wonderful weekend!

99% Inspiration, 1% Perspiration

"As to color in dress, there are three things to be considered by the individual: the effect of color on yourself, on those around you, and on your background. Health, spirits and efficiency are affected by the colors you wear. Drab, hopeless, tasteless shades turn the whole course of your life one way just as inevitably as gay, stimulating, pleasure-giving colors will turn it another."

-The New Butterick Dressmaker (Butterick Publishing Company, 1927)

Well, that's really a rather dramatic way of putting it, dontcha think?

Color and its influence on my mood is undeniable. The inspiration for the project shown below was immediate, but it took almost a year for it to manifest itself into a garment...



Now, to you, it may simply be a shirt. But to me.... well, if you've been reading my other posts, you know already...

Conicidentally - Yes, I only read the paper after writing today's post...

Today's Wall Street Journal article on Claude Monet starts with a lovely quote from William Butler Yeats. It refers to the illusion that art, if it achieves its goal, looks as if it were easy for the artist.

"A line may take us hours, maybe
But if it does not seem a moment's thought
Our stitching and unstitching has been naught"