These are not pants...

(Originally published 4/18/08) - You'll see why on my other blog shortly.


"Okay... she's clearly lost her mind" you're thinking. "I am sure I see a pair of pants in that photo"

Well, let me tell you this. I live in a shopping MECCA. If it isn't out of economic or fitting necessity, or an insatiable hunger to have something "different", there is absolutely NO REASON to sew another pair of pants. Of that, I am certain.

But these are not pants. No, they aren't, my friends.

Not meant to be shown to you against the blank walls of our foyer as a backdrop, or shown on my awkwardly posed figure, as I struggle for a clever way to hold the camera, catching the right light, in an emotionally bland, poorly composed presentation. These pants are about the weather I imagine is coming, events I will attend, the life I am leading, will lead, and improvements I want to make. They are more than pants.

They are...

that trip to Seville, Spain I envision myself taking, eating a lovely paella at sunset, near the huge, beautiful Cathedral

or...

a walk in the lovely Spring weather in Central Park, stopping to people-watch at the boathouse.

or...



a casual picnic lunch out with friends, with good music.

Having invested more time and effort than I can reasonably explain, I took the steps to fit them carefully, getting just the right amount of extra width in the leg, and the hip contour to follow my own hips just right...

I put in an invisible zipper, fusing and hand-picking the seam allowances in place, to keep it "invisible" and smooth. (below)



As always, I sewed my "leg inside of leg" crotch seam, to ensure the symmetry of the inseam juncture.




They are not unhemmed and unpressed on the floor, amid toys carelessly strewn about. And they are not just pants. They are the embodiment of my creative fantasy, and happy spring mood. When I do wear them, I won't be thinking about posing for a picture in the right light; I will simply be leading my life. So the pants I am showing you now, are not what will leave home on my body. Those pants will have a life of their own.


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Pant fitting.... or, "Things to Know..." Part 10

So, I had TWO WHOLE HOURS to myself yesterday. How long has it been since that happened? My husband took the kids to the park, and I had to make the hard decision about whether to nap or sew. I decided to sew. I'm making a straight pair of vibrant red pants, using a very basic pant pattern, and the sewing machine was just beckoning to me, so I put on some music and sewed. It felt great. I carefully thread-traced and sewed my darts, stitched each leg, got ready to sew the crotch seam...and... guess what?


I don't know why, but....


I had made two right legs. One, wrong sides together... one, right sides together. Rookie mistake.




I should have napped. Clearly, I needed it.

Anyway, here are the basic alterations I had to make to the pattern for my figure. I don't differ too much from the body measurements of the size I was sewing, so, there wasn't much to do.




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Pants fitting

I mentioned that I had the perfect pants fitting article somewhere among my notes.

Well, I found it.



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Things to Know Before You Sew (Part 4)

This entry is more information on choosing your correct pattern size. This is the third in the Things to know series...

For women only, this information will help you find the help you need to use a pants pattern.

Information includes: taking measurements, finding your hips, tissue markings for finished measurements of garment, full rear end adjustments.



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Pattern Companies

When I worked for a pattern company some years ago, I accumulated quite a list of other pattern companies. There really is so much out there, and a quality, appropriately-sized pattern with clear directions is worth its weight in gold!

First, these are the standard companies:

Butterick
Vogue
Simplicity
McCalls
Burda
Marfy
Green Pepper

Just really pretty:
La Fred
The Pattern Studio

Historical and Ethnic:

Folkwear
Amazon Drygoods
Vintage Pattern Lending Library
Harper House

Out-of-Print and collectible:

Patterns from the Past

Corsets:

Farthingales

Fit-specific:

JSM Patterns

I know the owner, and have seen her demonstrate her methods in person and on Susan Khalje's TV show. She absolutely knows what she's talking about!

Connie Crawford

She specializes in plus size clothing, has designed some special patterns for Butterick, and is a great person. I have her book on pattern grading, which has been very helpful.

Unique

This company will take a pattern and customize it for you. Well worth the trouble, if you would prefer to leave it to the experts.

Comfort:
Park bench Patterns

Gloves, handbags and hats:

Pattern Studio

I've never tried their patterns, but they have a glove collection that really intrigues me...

There are so many more than these, but I suppose this is enough...

What the @%*&#???

How brilliant!

As part of cleaning out my stash, I happened upon this item...

A fitting "tool", which is actually just an excuse to give a pattern fitting lesson for exactly ONE aspect of any pants pattern. Now, really, what a clever marketing scheme...





Apparently, in 1976, this Pants Former was promoted as an easy-to-use tool, meant to save you from the frustrating challenge of getting that darn crotch curve right. All you need are two strings, a mirror, a stepstool, a paperclip, your reading glasses, and an extra set of arms or two!

This product really bothers me. To fit a pair of pants properly, there is so much more to think about than just whether or not there is enough of a crotch curve to fit your derriere.

When I make pants for myself, I have to consider and adjust the following:

My waist to hip measurement is short, like a petite figure, although I am average height.

My belly is flat, but my waist is not so narrow. My pants have to be fairly tight stretch, drawstring, darted or elasticized at the waist to stay up comfortably.

I have to consider my hips (or lack thereof). I have to reshape the side seams accordingly.

I usually need to lengthen the legs below the crotch line to get back the length I have taken out at the hip level. For personal preference, I usually change the leg shape (mostly taper).

I need back darts to hug the hollow below my waist, and to make a nicer profile.

My commercial pants patterns look like a million puzzle pieces when I'm done adjusting!

Can any of you think of any way this product would get you significantly closer to a better fitting pant? Unless you're making pajama pants, where crotch depth and shape is all that really matters, I can't see how this contraption would really solve your fitting issues.