Trial by Fire (and Error)

Reposting - (originally posted 7/17/11 - still relevant!)

Sometimes, despite your best intentions, things can go horribly wrong. Failed relationships, disappointments... make you wanna "make lemonade". That lemonade isn't always as sweet as you'd hoped.

On that particularly dismal trip to Hot-As-Heck, NC in the summer when I was 16, my mom distracted "my grandmother" (my own awkward name for her, since it never rolled off my tongue to call her "Grandma", or anything like that.) outside for a bit, my Dad pushed aside a large dresser to reveal a door in the front room that lead deeper into the house. Behind the dresser, in neatly appointed rooms covered by a thick layer of dust, lay the year 1965 or so. Furniture in conversational positions, and a lovely baby grand piano, showing signs that a real life had been lived here. Organized and bright, these lonely rooms had been untouched for at least a decade, I suspected. And the "kid's" rooms (my Dad and his brother) were just as they left them even longer ago. At times, my grandmother talked about her "kids" as if they were still boys, and her husband (my grandfather) who had died before I was born, as if he were still alive. My Dad showed me the rooms, whispering quietly, unemotionally, and factually about what each room represented for him. We tiptoed out, put the dresser back as it was, and pretended to be sitting quietly when she came back in.

Back to the present:

Wiped out after a dressmaking project that went wrong, I decided to work out my dissapointment with a personal project. Because I had used an expensive fabric from my personal stash (a luscious, black double silk organdy) as a lining to help "save" a dress that ultimately didn't work for a client, I decided to reclaim some of that fabric for a new dress, which I would name "Things we lost in the fire". My obsession with flame motifs led me to buy a lovely cotton emblazoned with a firey mix of reds and oranges, and apply it to a summer dress. Set against a smooth, jet-black cotton, I sketched and imagined until a creative frenzy sent me to the dress form to messily drape the design.



These approximate shapes gave me rough templates for cutting my pattern pieces...




I adjusted the pattern to my shape, cut the dress pieces, assembled the dress, and was pleased.



That is, until I put it on. Somehow, I had created what looked like a grandma's nightgown with flames. Hot flashes? Ode to menopause? Not what I was going for. Knowing I would never wear it, I resolved to find the version of this idea that I would/could wear. Okay, the silk organdy has no place on this dress, either. I wanted to place it as a bottom border, sorta giving the illusion that the fabric had been singed as the flames traveled up the dress. Okay, so I could see it in my head... but on the body? Just Terrible.



All of that to get to this. Black skirt, to be worn with a black tank and my favorite red wedge sandals.




Now, if only I had a tattoo...





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What is old can be new again...

This 1890's ensemble, bought at an auction, cried out to be refashioned for this millenium. This creative bride's personality was a perfect match for this dress. Here are the original three pieces, before we began:





and what we created:




Sometimes the vintage dream just won't conform to the woman's body. That is what extreme alterations are for! The addition of a shaped back panel of matching black silk gave this vintage store find a new life.



Check out this great little 1950's dress on the bridesmaid...


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Blushing (pink) bride...

I love it when a bride knows what she likes. This particular bride knows that she loves pink, was having a very conservative wedding, is very young, and wanted to look like herself on her wedding day. Using her favorite dress as a model, we developed a very basic design, and found a very soft, pink silk to create the look.



I was so happy to be a part of her day.



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Happy moments...

I often forget to stop and share what projects made me feel proud, all warm and fuzzy inside, and truly happy to be in such a great profession. Although this first photo is really far from doing this dress justice, let me just share the idea with you.

This lovely bride (and even lovlier person) came to me with an idea for a dress to suit her very petite frame. For her outdoor, summer wedding, she chose this lovely silk gauze (you can see the texture in subsequent photos) and hand crocheted her own flowers to be used as appliques on the dress. She indicated how they should form an assymetric trail up the skirt and over one shoulder of the dress, and then chose a selection of antique buttons from her grandmother's collection to adorn the back of the dress.




The result was a true collaboration that thrilled us both. Here are her impeccable flowers, sewn on the bodice...



One shoulder (blurry, but you get the idea)



The skirt portion of the dress:



I really love this kind of project, and hope to do many more in the future.

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Design your own dress

This is probably the best example of a design your own dress website I have ever seen. If it works, and you get what you envision in the timeframe they promise, these guys win!

Visit www.styleshake.com and feel free to comment.

No affiliation, of course.

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On fatal design flaws...

I've had this pattern for along time, mostly because I keep thinking I must be missing something about this dress.

It really appeals to me, but I can't imagine how this dress, cut the way the pattern recommends, and using the recommended fabrics, could possibly work on a body that moves.

This deep back is really lovely, and would make a great vacation dress, but...



The pattern for the body of the dress is THREE pieces, and the contrast bands, are another two. It has no waist stay, front boning or support of any kind, and no underwires or bra cups are called for at all. The recommended fabrics are denim, gabardine or linen. The front of the dress has a high, square neckline and shoulder straps spaced far out on the shoulder.

What????

I can't imagine who could wear this, and still lead a life, bend over, reach for anything... unless she relied heavily on double-stick body tape... what would hold this dress on your body?

Have any of you ever seen a low-backed garment that didn't make up for it in structural support at the waist, and the front and/or sides?

On "drag" or "lift"...

When discussing bias, Charles Kliebacker phrased it eloquently in Threads #99 (February/March 2000).

He says...

Fabrics cut on the bias either have "drag" or "lift". Fabrics such as crepe, jersey, or charmeuse are among the fabrics that can be said to "drag" or "drop" on the bias. Fabrics such as taffeta, chiffon, broadcloth, or organza "lift" on the bias. Either type can be used to create a beautiful garment, but drag is better suited to revealing the form underneath, and lift, to concealing it.

I don't think I could have put it better.

Now, here's where I always have a problem explaining the visual to clients, since both fabric types are "right", but achieve different effects. Garments constructed of bias-cut fabrics with "lift" can create that "I feel fat" result. No, it isn't slimming, but it doesn't hug, either. Really nice way to understand which effect you want BEFORE you begin.

The angels are in the details!

This post was inspired by my clean-up/clean-out for our move next month. It is a brief farewell tribute to an old blouse I made, which I found...in a ball, in a box... in a dark corner... waiting to be discarded.

I love details. The tiny elements that make a garment extra-special, if only to the wearer, can be so powerful.

Like pintucks...



And beaded fagotting...




And interesting buttons (in this case bone beads on a false closure - there are actually snaps underneath)...




I was inspired by a December 1996 Threads article "Heavenly Embellishment" to try the beaded detail, and I was in a vintage-y, batiste-y, pituck-y kind of phase, so I designed and draped this blouse from the ground up. I was so happy to have learned how to drape and draft a pattern for a collar, that I wanted to create a blouse using all of the elements I loved. I wouldn't recommend it.

As I have matured in my sewing, I have found that it is best to isolate these details, not pile them all on one project, as I did with this monstrosity... (below) I am not bothering to iron it, or give it a new life -- I will simply cut off the bone buttons, and save the strips of fagotting for use on another batiste project in the future. I do remember that 12 hours of handwork went into that beading!

The hand that rocks the cradle...

I've been working so much lately, but everything has been really slow-going. I plan, rearrange, rethink, plan... I need a vacation, I think.

I am a mom, and an EXTREMELY busy one at that, but I just can't break down and wear mom-type clothes, and I can never find what I want in stores. When I don't do any personal sewing, my wardrobe shrinks. I bought some fabric that just spoke to me, and have had a hard time deciding what type of garment it should be. The denim-look linen is from Rosen and Chadick, and the printed cotton is from Britex, bought on my PACC trip to San Francisco last year.




Believe it or not, I remembered a favorite dress from about 10 years ago, found the pattern (with notes!) in my collection, and View B (long) is what I am creating...



I am also still working on a quilt (yes, a quilt) reinterpretation of a painting created by my sister in 1976. This is a quilt that will belong to my family, that we will actually use for sleeping... Finding the fabrics, colors, and the bits of time I have dedicated to working on it has taken two years so far... what a journey. How far am I from finished? I don't know.

As you can see, I am still in the "fabric collage" stage, organizing and positioning cut pieces, and making sure the colors pop vibrantly next to one another. I have it hanging from the ceiling post so I can see how it works as an image, as it grows and grows. It is about 3'x3' right now, on its way to being 6'x6'. It is meant to be childish and fun, but is far from what it will be when done - this is 25%, maybe? Forgive the picture quality and the drag lines from the way it is hanging - but I can't convey what it looks like in words...




Over the past weeks, I have also made a big, colorful bag, a Barney Rubble costume (yes, its true), and a variety of repairs and redesigns.

Above all, though, I've been enjoying my kids. They're only this small for a short time... Watching them run and play and laugh today made me happier than anything I could ever imagine. They inspire me creatively. The quilt will get finished when it gets finished.

On running a custom sewing business

Running a custom sewing business can be an enormously satisfying way to earn a living, supplement the family income, or simply contribute your skills to the community. Alterations and repairs are fairly straightforward transactions, pretty well understood by most clients. However, selling invisible products and labor (e.g. a custom dress) can be far more complex arrangements. There are some great resources out there to get you started, or help you grow.

Below, are the basics to consider, whether you are or want to be a custom sewing professional.

Join a professional organization. Being a member of a professional organization will help you get the information you need to run your business effectively, and it will give you credibility with your clients, while letting them know that you are committed to the growth and improvement of your business. The Professional Association of Custom Clothiers is a great one to join, especially if you would like the support and guidance of long-established sewing professionals. The Costume Society of America is another, and there are more groups for tailors, researchers, bridal professionals, and other specialties. If you want to work in certain fields (like Broadway costume design in New York City), you may need to join a union to get work.

Continue your education. Take classes taught by quality teachers, and learn the best methods for the types of projects you intend to pursue. Develop your own techniques, and seek to constantly improve your skills.

Develop a web presence. Don’t rely on the yellow pages or the local paper for all of your business. Most people with disposable income (who are more likely to be your clients) have internet access and use the web to find what they are looking for. If you offer something particularly unique, being listed on a website or developing your own website is particularly worthwhile. A professional organization like PACC offers listings for its members, and Find a Dressmaker and A Vintage Wedding are sites that will list the businesses which meet their criteria.

Invest in quality equipment, and keep existing equipment well maintained. Old, temperamental equipment will cost you time and money, and affect the quality of your projects. If you are just beginning, be project-oriented, not income oriented, at first. Establishing your rates will take time, and you will need to keep a time and expense log for a wide variety of projects before you will know how much you need to charge. There are many books that promise “foolproof” methods, but only you know your own pace and work style.

Love what you do, and love your clients. Let’s face it – there are far easier ways to earn a buck. If this isn’t something you are passionate about, you will grow to hate it, and lament the loss of your hobby. Know that things can and will go wrong. Establish a business policy and procedures for when these things happen. Difficult clients, poor time management, and projects gone awry happen to even the best of dressmakers. Whatever the agreement or disagreement, make sure that those policies honor the client, while maintaining your own integrity.

Make things! The best advertising is word-of-mouth, since most custom sewing businesses are local. Make, alter and repair great things for yourself, your friends and your family, and do not hesitate to let people know that you are in business, and how to contact you. Don't fall for the idea that the key to success is that wealthy people will want to overpay for your services, as many of the cheerleading-type start-up information would have you believe. Strive to make what you offer worth the price.