On "drag" or "lift"...

When discussing bias, Charles Kliebacker phrased it eloquently in Threads #99 (February/March 2000).

He says...

Fabrics cut on the bias either have "drag" or "lift". Fabrics such as crepe, jersey, or charmeuse are among the fabrics that can be said to "drag" or "drop" on the bias. Fabrics such as taffeta, chiffon, broadcloth, or organza "lift" on the bias. Either type can be used to create a beautiful garment, but drag is better suited to revealing the form underneath, and lift, to concealing it.

I don't think I could have put it better.

Now, here's where I always have a problem explaining the visual to clients, since both fabric types are "right", but achieve different effects. Garments constructed of bias-cut fabrics with "lift" can create that "I feel fat" result. No, it isn't slimming, but it doesn't hug, either. Really nice way to understand which effect you want BEFORE you begin.

On Bias...

I am always amazed at how long one can sew, and how the learning curve never ceases. Even now, I keep learning things that I am absolutely amazed never came up...

I have always been troubled by bias chiffon. To the point that I currently avoid it like the plague... Now, I know at least part of the reason why. While perusing my collection of Threads Magazines, I found issue #47 (June/July 1993). Oh, my collection is far from complete, but I have kept the ones containing valuable information.

So, the "Taming Bias" article by Joyce Gayle contains lots of information I already knew, but it also gave me a HUGE "ahaa!" moment.



Did you know that the two mirror-image pieces (opposite bias) will actually drape differently? No wonder!!!!