Inspiration

Originally posted 10/27/09

Why is she telling this story backwards?



(Above) A fabulously unusual Miyake design.

I have loved Issey Miyake for a long time, and have a good collection of his patterns, although I've actually only sewn a few of them. Wearing his designs takes a certain confidence in your own artistic interpretation and expression that I think I've had to grow into.

One thing dressmaking has shown me is the amazing variety of body types, dimensions and fit preferences out there. In theory, all clothing should be custom made, but I do realize that it would require a complete re-thinking of how many of us live. As unique as snowflakes, we all navigate different climates, social and professional cultures, physical requirements and challenges, different levels of health, flexibility and body image...

I really marvel at the idea of relatively sizeless wearable sculpture, since my clients, and most people I know, are usually looking to clothe themselves in garments that mimic the shapes of their bodies.

I know Miyake and I are kindred spirits because he co-authored one of my very favorite books about Madeliene Vionnet...



Kimono-making lessons - I was fortunate to have the opportunity to make kimono for kabuki theater early this year. The director had very little to spend on costumes, but knew A LOT about kimono-making, so instead of charging my normal rate, I charged her less, in exchange for lessons and insight. If you have never made one, you wouldn't believe the amout of detail and tradition that govern how a kimono is "properly" made. It is extremely specific, and not something I would recommend trying just for the heck of it. To do it properly (if that is your goal), you have to learn new techniques, and hand-sewing skills. Tradition matters here, and it all doesn't make sense at first... I had to hear a lot of stories before I started to understand. The opposite of the way I usually work, the design of the kimono dictates the fabric, instead of the other way around. Of course, you can always approximate the kimono with modern techniques, but it will be more of a costume version, or a westernized nod to the style of the kimono.



The origami Yoda, pictured above, was an absolute inspiration to this process. Doesn't he look warm and cozy?

I always longed for a winter coat that looked like it was meant to compliment the grey winter cityscape, and I love to be that odd tile in our city's mosaic, so the Miyake coat undertaking was right for this moment. So maybe it took a decade or so, but I finally did it!



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I've come full circle on sewing with patterns

There was a time, about 18 years ago, in fits of frustration, I was convinced that I would rather drape and draft my own patterns than sew with a commercial pattern at all. Frustrated by huge Amazonian shoulders, gaping necklines, having to rearrange the proportions of absolutely every pattern to fit my frame and design aesthetic, I decided that it just wasn't worth the trouble.

I have since changed my mind. Finally, after years of sewing, I now know enough about patternmaking and fitting a body, that I can take a quality commercial pattern and "fix" it, both visually, and mathematically, to get the right result.

Years ago, I would have needed to make muslins of everything to be so sure something would fit. Nowadays, the questions I have to tackle have to do with whether I will actually like it once made. My mistakes have more to do with fabric choices and th vision not agreeing with reality. As much as I would love for my mind's eye to be able to see exactly what the result will be, I'm not so sure that's possible... And, after watching "The Last Emperor" last week, I can see that even the best designers are making educated guesses until they "find" the end result they desire.

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Vintage... there are no straight lines on the body...

I am still wiping the drool from my chin after seeing this pretty post from www.junebugweddings.com on vintage dresses. I have included one of her pictures (above) to give you a taste of what you'll find there, since the highlighted word "post" on its own doesn't really inspire exploration of another blog, right?

I love that dress... that architectural, straight look. My body is far from straight, though, and I don't think the dream would live up to the reality if I really tried to make such a garment.

We are a combination of curves, bulges, valleys and protrusions. In both good and bad ways, depending your point of view. Nothing brings this whole curve idea into sharper focus than making swimsuits. You body will just defy its constraints, and let you know that any stretch garment is just a mere coating for the your figure, and that all the structural tricks underneath are where the magic happens.

One thing that I notice about my own sewing, is that there is one area where I almost always, without fail, deviate from a printed commercial pattern. I am sure that due to the complications grading the markings would present, darts are just simple angles. (see below)


My darts are never just straight, and I usually have to change the length of them to suit my figure. I like my bust darts to end 1 1/2' away from the apex, and I like a gentler taper than most darts are designed to have. I guess this is one part of my draping and patternmaking education I have never been able to skimp on.

I am full of ideas and I have VERY little personal time. In keeping with my "no apologies" mantra, I aim to just complete my personal projects as I complete them, with no feelings of guilt over how long it takes me to finish, where we are in the season, or how many "do-overs" I have to endure to get the right look and fit.

P.S.

For those of you following my son's progress, I must share the sentence I heard this morning. After putting on his small Crayola backpack full of crayons, Aaron marched toward the front door and said "Aaron wants school today" Aaaaaugh! It made me want to cry (for joy)! He has been on school visits with me, and he actually sees the possibility of going to school, and is looking forward to it! Not only that, he is just 2 years and 9 months old, so it is completely age-appropriate for him to start thinking that way. Autism, schmautism, I say!


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Dirty tricks patterns play... (or, Things to know #10)

This is the tenth entry of the Things to know series...

I call these things "dirty tricks", because they are potential deal-breakers when it comes to getting the desired result when sewing...

Multi-part pieces...

When using a pattern from one of the major pattern companies, please note that, due to the size limits of the pattern tissue, the printers of your pattern might find it necessary to divide some pattern pieces into two (or more) parts. So, you may occasionally find a pattern piece that is numbered, let's use #1, as an example... but it actually needs another part(s) to complete it. Both piece 1 and piece #1A (its extension), must be taped together to make a complete piece. This spells disaster for the hasty, artistic mind that sees only piece #1, is not following the cutting instructions as written, and goes straight to pinning and cutting just that piece #1, without noticing that it is incomplete.

Sometimes, the piece has an extension to create another view, when there are different versions of one design.



This Miyake coat has an extension piece for #4, to create View B, which is longer than View A.

On strapless designs...

Strapless garments often measure less than your body measurement at the bustline. This is especially true if the garment does not have significant structural support (boning, etc.). Although the real key to keeping a strapless garment up is the boning and proper, snug waist fit, it needs to hug your bosom tight to keep "the girls" in there.

No provision for above waist adjustments...

This should be read as "Women who are ample-bosomed, or have other major upper-body fit issues need not apply". If you know a bit about design, and can adjust both the fit and design details to accommodate your shape, go ahead and do it! Otherwise, you will be left to wonder why the features are no longer aligned the way the designer intended.






Did you know...Maternity patterns are based on pre-pregnancy measurements (and a B cup)...?

I ask you, who the heck is a B cup when they're pregnant enough to wear maternity garb? Who the heck remembers their pre-pregnancy measurements when buying maternity patterns? Well, I don't know of a better system, but what a pain...



Ever experienced this one? You followed the directions, made the garment, looks great... but you can't move.
Some designs, especially for sleeves, are flawed when it comes to allowing for movement. If the fabric doesn't stretch, and the design looks like this... know that the "funky chicken" cannot be part of the plan for that night.



Also, beware close-fitting sleeves that only have a partial armhole seam. You know the kind... a tiny cap sleeve (usually found in formal wear) that looks like a wing" attached to the bodice? Looks like you'll have to find a waltz partner shorter than you are...

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Napped fabrics (Things to know - Part 8)

Me (to my mother): Our cousin is suggesting a family get-together in North Carolina so Dad's side of the family can all get to know each other.
Mom: Sounds like a good idea...
Me: I really don't have the time or resources to plan it, so we really need someone else to take the reigns on this... I'm just not so sure everyone is all that interested.
Mom: (distant) Did you hear the story of the fraternal twins who were adopted by two different families?
Me: No...
Mom: Well, they grew up and married each other. They didn't know they were twins!
Me: How awful...
Mom: That's why it's good to get to know your family.

Is that an understatement or what?

Have you ever sewn with a napped fabric, and discovered your cutting mistake after the fact? While that mistake pales in comparison to the surprise of finding out you have married your sibling, it is just so upsetting, I thought I would give some pointers on identifying one-way fabrics.

Many fabrics have a directional quality. Prints can have a definite "right side up" direction, such as floral with all of the blossoms and leaves headed one way. Fabrics such as brushed flannel, corduroy, mohair and velour, which have a soft or plush texture, feel smoother in one direction than the other. Also, fabrics such as knits, twill weaves and satin weaves show differences in color shading if not cut the same way. It is to these fabrics that the statement: "for one way designs - use nap fabrics and layouts" applies. The nap layout shows you how to arrange all the pattern pieces on the fabric so they are going in the same direction. Because this can require extra fabric, the napped fabric requirement is given separately on the back of the pattern envelope.



Example of a directional print (above).

If you are wondering where all of these posts are coming from, let me tell ya... I am so busy that I just write pieces of posts when the mood strikes, and I have at least 10 half-written posts at all times. Over time, I forget them, and/or forget to post them, and they just need a few sentences to tie them up and make them "postable". This kind of brain organization happens about once weekly, so that's when you see a flood of posts. The information is from my vast collection of article proposals (which have never been accepted), book proposals (same deal), books, magazines, and personal notes. I've been trying to get things published for a long time now (12 years?), but so far, I have only written for companies for whom I've worked as a full-time employee... so apparently, freelance writing in the cards for me, and hey, this information can help people... so why not just post it here, right?

All of my posts are the result of a spare 20 minutes here and there, while my son has his therapies (more on his progress later), while he naps, or while my daughter does her homework. Lots of good news to share about both of them... That post will take some time...

Pattern difficulty... or "Things to know" (Part 7)

This is the seventh entry of the Things to know series...

My work has become much more deliberate, purposeful, intentional... and so, fewer garments have been made lately. That's okay, though. It is probably part of the "maturing" process, and the best things last for years, anyway.

There is a Japanese philosophy called "kaizen", which is about doing all things in tiny steps to achieve your goals. It is a beautiful process for the creative person, and one I highly recommend it for anyone who is having trouble slowing down, and/or keeping all of their balls in the air. (I read a wonderful book that inspired me to implement the strategies in my own life... "One Small Step..." -- if interested, you'll find the book's full datils on my Amazon slide show to the right).

Another thing that will help you if you have any time, attention span or frustration factor concerns, is to choose your patterns according to difficulty ratings. I don't know how many of you look at the difficulty ratings when you choose your sewing patterns, but there is a method to the madness (for Butterick, McCall's and Vogue, at least). Some of the reasoning is obvious, and some less obvious... I will help to demystify them for you now...


Very Easy:
The easiest and quickest patterns to sew. Perfect for the beginner or experienced sewer with limited time available. Most patterns have only five main pieces. Easy to sew fabrics are recommended.





Easy:
More details than the Very Easy category. Perfect for those with limited sewing knowledge or little time. Expect a wider variety of sewing procedures. Some fitting knowledge required.




Average:
Perfect for those with more time or sewing experience. Challenging construction details, more fitting and inner construction: interfacing, lining and underlining. More variety of fabrics - from stretch to synthetic leathers and suedes.




Advanced:
Perfect for those who like the challenge of fine couture techniques. Expect intricate shaping, hidden construction details, fine touches of hand sewing, and more. These patterns use the widest variety of fabrics.


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Wrong turns and missteps

Sometimes, patterns that look wrong, can be transformed... but truly, there's hope for the following examples...



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Independent Pattern companies and fabric shopping

I have recently been asked where a person can buy sewing patterns. Well, the most common way, is to go to a large or independent fabric shop, browse through the pattern catalogs, and select and buy your patterns right there in the store. When I worked for a pattern company, it was standard for the big companies to have approximately 700 patterns in a catalog, so there probably is some version of what you are looking for in one of those books. The most common catalogs you will find are Butterick, McCalls, Vogue, Simplicity and New Look. In the catalaogs, you will find patterns for children, women, men, boys, girls, infants, pets, crafts, and home decor. Sleepwear, formalwear, casual and costumes are all represented.

If you are not near a fabric store, you may shop online, or you can buy books or magazines containing patterns/directions. You can also invest in a computerized pattern drafting program. (I have no experience with these)

My recent post on the subject of pattern companies gives lots of other pattern choices, and here are a few more, I've found along the way...

Nostagic Patterns is a new vintage-inspired pattern company.

Men's patterns can be harder to find, and Islander Sewing systems has plenty.

Of course, if vintage is your thing, there's always www.oldpatterns.com.

So, let's say you've found the perfect pattern, but you can't find the notions and fabrics required to make it. You can absolutely shop online with good results. I would recommend getting swatches before ordering blindly. You may have to pay a swatch fee, but that beats ordering fabric you don't want, doesn't it? Some stores in Manhattan's garment district will handle your swatch requests quickly and easily, and you can order beautiful fabric without hassle. You do have to be able to describe what you want, though. If you live in New York City or nearby, you can't do better than hopping on the subway.

Some ideas for where to buy notions:

www.clotilde.com
www.joann.com
www.nancysnotions.com
www.steinlaufandstoller.com

For fabrics, the list is truly endless. Here are some I've used and loved:

www.batiks.com
www.intfab.com
www.leandrofabrics.com
www.thaisilks.com

Remember the 80's?

Things to Know Before You Sew (Part 4)

This entry is more information on choosing your correct pattern size. This is the third in the Things to know series...

For women only, this information will help you find the help you need to use a pants pattern.

Information includes: taking measurements, finding your hips, tissue markings for finished measurements of garment, full rear end adjustments.



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Things to know before you sew (Part 3)

This entry is more information on choosing your correct pattern size. This is the third in the Things to know series...

For women only, this information will help you find the help you need to avoid buying the wrong patterns.

Information includes: taking measurements while wearing the proper bra, where to measure, how pattern was designed to fit, standard height for patterns, tissue markings for finished measurements of garment, body types and figure flattery, "no provision for above waist adjustment", and using the stretch fabric gauge.




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Things to know before you sew (Part 2)

This entry is about choosing your correct pattern size. This is the second in the Things to know series...

For women only, this information will help you avoid the most common pattern selection mistake.



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On fatal design flaws...

I've had this pattern for along time, mostly because I keep thinking I must be missing something about this dress.

It really appeals to me, but I can't imagine how this dress, cut the way the pattern recommends, and using the recommended fabrics, could possibly work on a body that moves.

This deep back is really lovely, and would make a great vacation dress, but...



The pattern for the body of the dress is THREE pieces, and the contrast bands, are another two. It has no waist stay, front boning or support of any kind, and no underwires or bra cups are called for at all. The recommended fabrics are denim, gabardine or linen. The front of the dress has a high, square neckline and shoulder straps spaced far out on the shoulder.

What????

I can't imagine who could wear this, and still lead a life, bend over, reach for anything... unless she relied heavily on double-stick body tape... what would hold this dress on your body?

Have any of you ever seen a low-backed garment that didn't make up for it in structural support at the waist, and the front and/or sides?

The urge not to purge... (Part III)

Happy Halloween! (Well, almost) I made this blouse when I was about 19 years old, and wore it until I turned 30. This is a strange example of a two-layered top that worked so well, that it belongs in the "happy accident" category. The orange fabric was a poly chiffon, (believe it or not)and I sewed two fabric layers as one, with a lightweight black challis-like fabric beneath. I made a hidden snap closure for the front. Yes, it was loud... and I loved it! I miss it. I usually got only a few wears out of it - around halloween, against an all-black outfit... I do still have the pattern... I would need the perfect fabric, though.







This pattern was never a candidate for the Ebay purge. Despite the frumpy, weird series of photos on the front of this pattern envelope, this is one of my very favorite patterns. I made the top (pictured in a grey fabric), in a blue washable silk with an "outer-spacey" splatter-dyed effect, and it was the most comfortable, flowy, feminine top in the world. I just retired mine (now, 12 years old) this summer! This whole pattern works really well for me...

Urge to purge... NOT!!! (Part II)

More things I considered Ebaying...




And when I make it, let's hope I feel as good in it as that model (in the middle) looks in it!





I love the mature, exaggeratedly conservative look of this pattern.

Urge to purge... or not? (Part I)

I have considered and reconsidered putting some patterns on Ebay for two days, and today... they all go right back in the stash. I'm just not ready... I'll have to get to these someday.

I thought I'd share them with you, though, because they are interesting... It will take a few posts to cover them all, so let's just call this one "Part One"!



Did you know DVF developed a pattern for Butterick? I have never sewn it, and I don't know why... I believe I will, but heck, I said that ten years ago, didn't I?




The next pattern intrigues me. I can't quite figure out what is going on with this jacket, and I really want to make it, with a really rich combination of jewel-toned colors. Then... I'll need an event to wear it to!

Pattern Companies

When I worked for a pattern company some years ago, I accumulated quite a list of other pattern companies. There really is so much out there, and a quality, appropriately-sized pattern with clear directions is worth its weight in gold!

First, these are the standard companies:

Butterick
Vogue
Simplicity
McCalls
Burda
Marfy
Green Pepper

Just really pretty:
La Fred
The Pattern Studio

Historical and Ethnic:

Folkwear
Amazon Drygoods
Vintage Pattern Lending Library
Harper House

Out-of-Print and collectible:

Patterns from the Past

Corsets:

Farthingales

Fit-specific:

JSM Patterns

I know the owner, and have seen her demonstrate her methods in person and on Susan Khalje's TV show. She absolutely knows what she's talking about!

Connie Crawford

She specializes in plus size clothing, has designed some special patterns for Butterick, and is a great person. I have her book on pattern grading, which has been very helpful.

Unique

This company will take a pattern and customize it for you. Well worth the trouble, if you would prefer to leave it to the experts.

Comfort:
Park bench Patterns

Gloves, handbags and hats:

Pattern Studio

I've never tried their patterns, but they have a glove collection that really intrigues me...

There are so many more than these, but I suppose this is enough...