The dressmakers' dilemma... Scoliosis

A few weeks ago, I offered my own "Dressmaker's Serenity Prayer" on my Facebook page.


The dressmaker's serenity prayer/meditation:

Please grant me the serenity to refuse the garments I cannot sew/alter; courage to sew/alter the garments I can; and wisdom to know the difference...

By far, the greatest challenge I have had in dressmaking, is sewing for people with scoliosis. When the challenges are skeletal, postural, and anatomical, it makes any dressmaker seem completely inept. I have discovered that many who have been in the profession for many years, simply say "no" when asked to do this work.

The challenge, as I see it, is that the grainline on a curved body (depending on how it curves) will not simply hang straight where you put it. If you over-fit a garment, it becomes impossible to honor the grainline, and if you try to create any design line that is meant to look "straight", the question becomes "Relative to what?" Are we making a straight line down the center of the wearer's body, or is the line meant to be straight as it relates to the horizon? Do we "cheat", and create something between the two?

In the meantime, the process can frustrate a person to no end.

So, the solution, as I see it, for the person who is well-financed and maintains a stable enough weight to do so, is to get a custom made dress form, so endless fittings aren't needed. But, guess what... when you ask the custom form makers if they will do it, and explain the challenges, some of the very best companies will still tell you "no".

As I see it, the only true fitting solution, if you want to create complex designs, is to have a body cast made, using that to create a dress form. Well, that, or keep it simple, and relax your fitting standards a bit... (my recommendation).

Shop the Garment District

You will now find me blogging regularly at the www.shopthegarmentdistrict.com blog, where I will share valuable information with you.  The more personal stories will still be found right here, but not on regular schedule - just when I have things to share.  Here's the deal: exciting things are afoot in my business life, but so much of it just isn't shareable.  The nature of my work these days requires me to be both discreet and professional, so I'll just share what i can when appropriate.  The best part of it all is that I am finding what I have always heard to be true.  Do what you love... and the money (well, debateable... or exciting opportunities, at least??? and some money, I guess) will follow!

-Mimi

Zelda Kaplan

The life of Zelda Kaplan, a New York artist, is an interesting one, detailed in the article I have linked to this post below (highlighted name "Zelda").

I have recently begun an amazing assignment, working as the "hands" of an extremely experienced French dressmaker/couturier, living in New York, who is just overflowing with creativity and ideas.  She is as talented as anyone can possibly be, and working with her is like being paid to take one of the best classes I have ever taken.  And what I am learning is not what one learns in design school... it is about the art of the craft, the philosophy of fashion, the amazing turn a dress can take when you turn a "V" shaped neckline into one that is squared off at the bottom.  The best part of all, is that I am in the right place in my life, professionally, and personally, to appreciate and absorb what she has to say.  While her clientele and friends are and have been names we all know, she is as personable, sweet, and grounded as any person can be.

Oh, Zelda.  I didn't know her personally, but this fashion-forward nonagenerian inspired so many, and will truly be missed.

The things we make have one supreme quality; they live longer than us. We perish, they survive. We have one life, they have many lives. And in each life, they can mean different things - which means that while we all have one biography, they have many.

-Niel MacGregor, Director of the British Museum

I take fabric, cut it, shape it to fit an individual human being, sew it, tweak it, finish it, and send it on its way. I gave birth to it, and then it travels on to be with its owner.  I love being involved in the process.  The above quote sums it all up so well.  Some people make things because we simply must.  I can't control this desire to create.  I have long quiet periods of deep thought, but they are vital to the process.  I must have spent a full hour in silence this morning, imagining twists and folds and calculations... Let's see what today's work yields...

Oh that's right! I have a blog, don't I?

This has been an incredibly busy post-holiday season so far. Lots of meetings, appointments, an incredibly intense, and fast-paced fashion business crash course, and the beat goes on...

The Find a Dressmaker list is growing, and continuing to improve.  My client relationships/communication are better, and I am doing better work as a result.

Here are some things I've learned lately, that I must share with you...

In no particular order...

Where have you been all my life?

Why is it, that only now, I have discovered the Evernote app?  Everyone needs it.  Correct that.  Everyone with a busy, creative, frenetic life needs it.  The days of having a Palm PDA are long gone, although I often miss mine, and the way it really did a much better job as a PDA than my IPhone ever will... but with this app, I have rediscovered the beauty of those PDA functions I miss so much, and all is right with the world again!

The ripply zipper problem in bias cut garments....

I had the pleasure of being in a designer studio where some pretty awesome stuff is being created for Fashion Week. I looked at the beautiful construction of the garments, and was truly impressed.  So, while examining them, I noticed a few things that were unique, but among them...

When working on a bias garment with complicated seams, why not insert the zipper on the bias?  Of course!  A zipper that goes from underarm to lower back is entirely doable, and so much better looking!  Shaking my head over how obvious such a technically well-thought-out design detail this is.

How do designers get their designs in stores... Financially?


So, I often wonder how designers take the risk of getting things produced, and then waiting for the stores to pay, while hoping for reorders... the answer is a FACTOR.  Not a financial mystery or secret, and clearly explained on this very well respected factor's website.

Where do you designers find samplemakers for Fashion Week?


Everywhere.  And nowhere.  The power is in relationship building.  No one does it for the cash.  No one.  Many dressmakers are at retirement, post-retirement, and "leave me alone" age.  Especially the skilled ones.  Any professional service hesitates to have any kind of staffing conversation unless you have are handing them a check RIGHT NOW.  The pressure of this economy has reached a fever pitch, and no one wants to take the time to build relationships with people, which, I believe, is what you must do, if you want to get good work out of them.  Dressmakers with hand skills seem to know each other, and know OF each other.  It isn't really a competitive niche, because frankly, it is talent-based.  You can't fake it.  Either you can do it, or you can't.

Secrets of the garment district.... shhhhhhh....

And one of the biggest secrets of the garment district here in NYC?  The same stuff all of these little firms (who often have no website or email address, by the way) do for high-end designers, they will also do for you, as long as you pay for it.  And not even exorbitant sums... Need your fabric pleated?  Fused? Covered buttons?  Grommets placed? Buttonholes? Leather cut with intricate little patterns?  It can all be done... Good luck finding it, though.  Again, it is all about relationship building.

Working Title

Years ago, I met a client, who has since become a friend. "Start writing," she said, and I did.  She  told me that it is very important to have a "working title" when you start, so you know where you're going.  So, I've literally been "weaving" a mostly true tale ever since.  People keep telling me to keep writing.  Those who don't know I do, tell me to start.  Is it all leading somewhere?

Anyway, there are threads and yarn and tangled twists and turns throughout the story, and I assume I'll be able to get them all worked out and organized as my double helix of thoughts winds into a more tightly organized journey.  Funny how threads and strings keep finding their way to me.

My Mom - WWII - knitting group with Red Cross leaders, making blankets for soldiers.

Been busy...

Fun feather collar on a duster style jacket/coat for a client.  Looks great on the body.