Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Miyake progress - bias binding, gusset sleeve

Originally written 9/29, but telling this story backwards...

Far more interesting this way, no?



So I've loved this pattern for a long time. Like 9 years... Yes, that long. I have always wanted to make this coat, but thought that maybe the model's body type and pose were influencing my love of this pattern, and that if I wasted the time making it for myself, only to discover that it looked like a garbage bag, I would be VERY upset.

But then, one day, the ideal fabric jumped off of the shelf at me in one of my favorite fabric stores...

The price happened to be right at the moment, and even though this is a fairly expensive project, it is very personal, and uniquely all mine.




My first fear was this sleeve/side gusset part of the construction. I worried that the photo was some sort of trick, and that I would have enormous, saggy fabric lumps in the armpit area of my coat. But I trusted the pattern, and the skill of the geat Miyake...



And this gusset works so well, that it forms a neat fabric dimple at the underarm, creating a classy, oversized sleeve that folds into itself when I put my arms down.



My next worry was this daunting pile of bias binding (above) I had to cut. Where would it all go? Well, it is used to create these bound seams that are visible when the coat flutters open. This is a really special, handamde touch that makes the coat seem... special-er...





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