Dirty tricks patterns play... (or, Things to know #10)

This is the tenth entry of the Things to know series...

I call these things "dirty tricks", because they are potential deal-breakers when it comes to getting the desired result when sewing...

Multi-part pieces...

When using a pattern from one of the major pattern companies, please note that, due to the size limits of the pattern tissue, the printers of your pattern might find it necessary to divide some pattern pieces into two (or more) parts. So, you may occasionally find a pattern piece that is numbered, let's use #1, as an example... but it actually needs another part(s) to complete it. Both piece 1 and piece #1A (its extension), must be taped together to make a complete piece. This spells disaster for the hasty, artistic mind that sees only piece #1, is not following the cutting instructions as written, and goes straight to pinning and cutting just that piece #1, without noticing that it is incomplete.

Sometimes, the piece has an extension to create another view, when there are different versions of one design.



This Miyake coat has an extension piece for #4, to create View B, which is longer than View A.

On strapless designs...

Strapless garments often measure less than your body measurement at the bustline. This is especially true if the garment does not have significant structural support (boning, etc.). Although the real key to keeping a strapless garment up is the boning and proper, snug waist fit, it needs to hug your bosom tight to keep "the girls" in there.

No provision for above waist adjustments...

This should be read as "Women who are ample-bosomed, or have other major upper-body fit issues need not apply". If you know a bit about design, and can adjust both the fit and design details to accommodate your shape, go ahead and do it! Otherwise, you will be left to wonder why the features are no longer aligned the way the designer intended.






Did you know...Maternity patterns are based on pre-pregnancy measurements (and a B cup)...?

I ask you, who the heck is a B cup when they're pregnant enough to wear maternity garb? Who the heck remembers their pre-pregnancy measurements when buying maternity patterns? Well, I don't know of a better system, but what a pain...



Ever experienced this one? You followed the directions, made the garment, looks great... but you can't move.
Some designs, especially for sleeves, are flawed when it comes to allowing for movement. If the fabric doesn't stretch, and the design looks like this... know that the "funky chicken" cannot be part of the plan for that night.



Also, beware close-fitting sleeves that only have a partial armhole seam. You know the kind... a tiny cap sleeve (usually found in formal wear) that looks like a wing" attached to the bodice? Looks like you'll have to find a waltz partner shorter than you are...

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Grainline (Things to know - part 9)

As I was saying... I made this dress in early 1995... and while I preserved its length and shape, mine was a whole different animal. I made the top (above the empire waist) of a camoflauge fabric, and the lower portion of a flowing, army-green rayon challis. I wore it with combat-inspired boots. Since I worked in the garment district at the time, it was appropriate for work. I considered it to be my "bad mood" dress, which I wore on the days I knew would require courage.

Anyway, one rainy, miserable night in November of that year, I had a cold, and a commitment to babysit a friend's child, and an invitation to a dinner party thrown by a friend. Feeling tired and overcommited, I wore that dress.

I entered the party, which was actually a "set-up" I didn't know about. Three guys, three women. Directly across the room, sat a man with what seemed to be a golden halo... Is that even possible? He was sitting next to a lamp that cast a heavenly glow around his head... or maybe there was a cosmic arrow pointing to him... who knows which?

He had on a pair of really interesting, Pilgrim-inspired shoes, with big buckles, just days before Thansgiving... and a big, nubby, beige knit sweater hugged his wonderfully broad physique. We made a bee-line for each other, attracted to the quirkiness of our clothing, and the positive energy we felt. We introduced ourselves, and were married nine months later. Twelve years later, I'm still smitten.

Maybe I exaggerate the importance of the dress... maybe not. However you want to look at it, it was exactly "me" that day, and that's who he met.

I bring up this dress specifically, because it was only shortly before making this dress, that I really learned the importance of grainline in the construction of a garment. I had already been sewing a long time, but adjusted my layouts to accommodate whatever quantity of fabric I was using. Among the fundamental, practical rules of sewing garments, in my opinion, this is where sewing approaches carpentry. Grainline REALLY matters. It matters for fit, durability, breathing and movement, symmetry, and visual effect. This was by far, one of the most comfortable dresses I have ever owned, and in this "mixed-message" dress, the soft fabric of the skirt fell into gentle cones at the bottom, that danced when I moved. That is because the side seams of that skirt were on the "bias", or diagonal grain.

The effect that using the proper grainline where the designer intended has on the finished garment is significant. It may not always be obvious when you shift your pattern pieces somewhat to accommodate a fabric shortage, alterations you've made to a pattern, or a less than strict adherence to the directions... but just wait till you wash it... and your fabric bumps, twists, and wrinkles in ways that betray all of your hard work. Then you will know the pain...

I have tried to make a video for this entry, but after viewing my attempts, I decided that the Threads site probably explains it much better. And they do... so you will find the information at http://www.taunton.com/threads/pdf/grainline.pdf

I'll take Manhattan and "Before You Sew" (Part 5)

There is a sewing-related video at the end of this post... it will all connect... you'll see.

Last night, my husband came home from work early and I left the house. By myself. Dressed like a grownup. (Well, my version, anyway - I had a bright tuquoisey-purpley thing happening) It was glorious. Went to a business networking event. I love going to these things, because the topics are often of great interest to me, I meet interesting people, and get to talk "shop" with people who speak my language. The event was a lot of fun.

The topic of the panel discussion was the current state of the music and movie industries, and what sort of challenges they are facing, and will face in this new digital age. Of particular interest, was how they expect the video game "Guitar Hero" to really affect boys' interest in pursuing music and forming garage bands over the next five years. Hey, and did you know that the lightening fast speed of the internet can now get the word out that something is great or horrible in a way that significantly impacts box-office receipts within days? In music and movies, you really have to be clever to make money from a poor product nowadays, and that is a good thing. "Cloverfield" was the example of the terrible movie everyone will stay away from. Personally, I have heard nothing but how horrible that movie is, since the day it opened. "Juno" is enjoying the opposite effect right now. I'd love to see that... that is, if I can actually leave the house again so soon...

And, on a depressing note, I learned that in the movie and music industries, pure talent really doesn't mean much in financial terms these days... very skillful marketing efforts plus talent bring the success (at least in monetary terms and name recognition), not just the quality of the work. It wasn't always that way. As one of the panelists said "Show me the platinum artist who came outta YouTube without a big marketing behind them..." Someone offered an example. He replied "3 million dollars in marketing. Try again." That's kinda sad, isn't it?

I met one of the original organizers of the Woodstock festival (yeah, the big one), a comedy club owner, a children's' clothing designer, an intellectual property attorney... and more...

But the absolute best part of last night, was that it reassured me that I can still hold quality conversations with adults, that I'm not "out of the loop" when it comes to current trends and ideas, and that I have valid points to make, of interest to people who are actually intelligent businesspeople. They made referenced to books I've read, names I know, places I know about, even if I haven't been... Whew! Felt good.

So, when it was over, I was in Manhattan. Alone. And I took some video to show you that the hoppin' nightlife I imagine I'm missing, didn't seem to be happening last night. Walked past where they are setting up the tents for fashion week, but it made for very boring video, so I didn't include it here.

So, as with anything great...music, movies, clothing... you can come up with any idea, using any pattern or method, but to make it a quality item, you need to know how to navigate the rules for that particular pursuit. You won't get there without some amount of study, so here's some more help.

And I was more than happy to come back home to our warm apartment, and resume my cozy life.

And... I just noticed that I don't need to upload my videos to YouTube; I can just upload them straight to Blogger... Never noticed that until today... Is that NEW?

Update - nevermind - didn't work. My videos are in the wrong format. So here it is, uplodaded on YouTube! It won't be available immediately, so if you are seeing this post as soon as I put it up, check back in a while.

Things to Know Before You Sew (Part 4)

This entry is more information on choosing your correct pattern size. This is the third in the Things to know series...

For women only, this information will help you find the help you need to use a pants pattern.

Information includes: taking measurements, finding your hips, tissue markings for finished measurements of garment, full rear end adjustments.



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Things to know before you sew (Part 3)

This entry is more information on choosing your correct pattern size. This is the third in the Things to know series...

For women only, this information will help you find the help you need to avoid buying the wrong patterns.

Information includes: taking measurements while wearing the proper bra, where to measure, how pattern was designed to fit, standard height for patterns, tissue markings for finished measurements of garment, body types and figure flattery, "no provision for above waist adjustment", and using the stretch fabric gauge.




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Things to know before you sew (Part 2)

This entry is about choosing your correct pattern size. This is the second in the Things to know series...

For women only, this information will help you avoid the most common pattern selection mistake.



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Pattern Companies

When I worked for a pattern company some years ago, I accumulated quite a list of other pattern companies. There really is so much out there, and a quality, appropriately-sized pattern with clear directions is worth its weight in gold!

First, these are the standard companies:

Butterick
Vogue
Simplicity
McCalls
Burda
Marfy
Green Pepper

Just really pretty:
La Fred
The Pattern Studio

Historical and Ethnic:

Folkwear
Amazon Drygoods
Vintage Pattern Lending Library
Harper House

Out-of-Print and collectible:

Patterns from the Past

Corsets:

Farthingales

Fit-specific:

JSM Patterns

I know the owner, and have seen her demonstrate her methods in person and on Susan Khalje's TV show. She absolutely knows what she's talking about!

Connie Crawford

She specializes in plus size clothing, has designed some special patterns for Butterick, and is a great person. I have her book on pattern grading, which has been very helpful.

Unique

This company will take a pattern and customize it for you. Well worth the trouble, if you would prefer to leave it to the experts.

Comfort:
Park bench Patterns

Gloves, handbags and hats:

Pattern Studio

I've never tried their patterns, but they have a glove collection that really intrigues me...

There are so many more than these, but I suppose this is enough...

Glover-ly fingers!

I have really enjoyed "trying my hand" at glovemaking. Ha! I can see what a lovely pair of gloves this pattern will make, and the excruciatingly careful attention to detail it requires. The next post you will see on this subject, will probably be me working on (or having completed) a real pair of gloves using this pattern.

For now, I understand the construction, thanks to the muslin process. I couldn't wrap my brain around it on vacation. The assembly of the fourchettes was impossible to understand on paper (couldn't put my finger on it - ha!), but much easier to understand with actual fabric in my hands.



The manipulation of the pieces to get accurate and attractive stitches is outrageously difficult, I think. Now that I've got the thumb understood, this muslin assembly was just quickly done, to see if I could get the construction happening the way it is supposed to look.



In my experience, the stitching that will give me the look I want, is not one of the suggested methods the pattern provides. For me, I need to baste my 1/8" seam together, and then hand sew on the right side of the glove with what I would call a fine, closely-spaced diagonal "stab and wrap" stitch, if that makes sense.

The fingertip shape is very important to the femininity and grace of the glove. A rounded tip is not what the pattern would yield, so they need to be re-shaped.

It seems that the biggest reward of making a custom pair of gloves is that a truly perfect fit is something you rarely (if ever) experience in a glove, and really unique gloves are such an indulgence. This project also has the benefit of being small and portable. And... if you like to drag things out, you could really spend an outrageous amount of time sewing them.

If you are a true glutton for punishment, tatted lace edges would create an unbearably luxurious pair...

Yes, it would be Glover-ly! (Thumb)

I am in an insanely bad mood today.

It seems there are obstacles at every turn, so I am just taking some time to decompress, and work on my glove. Here, I am sharing my first lessons with you.

This post is part of my ongoing quest, which began with "Wouldn't it be Glover-ly???" about a month ago.

Okay, so the glove challenge is considerably complicated - at least to me! I have read and re-read the instructions, and used the information Diane so generously shared with me to get a better understanding of how gloves are constructed, and my muslin atttempt has taught me volumes!!!!

Okay - they give a bias and straight grain layout. My muslin is cotton twill, since it is strong, easy to manipulate, and the bias has a nice, but resilient give. I used the bias layout.




The first step after cutting and marking was to manipulate the thumb piece, and insert it in that crazy claw shape opening on the hand piece. I have done this three times, making different mistakes every time, but now I see how it goes...


I think this is the hardest part of the construction, so maybe I'm over the hump...

This is just my muslin, mind you, so the hand stitching isn't perfect or careful, nor does the thread match...



Here's what I now know.

- The top of the thumb has to be stitched and clipped into a graceful curve, which is not the shape the pattern gives you.

- Manipulating the points of the thumb piece is very careful, precise work, that must be done with a very tight, accurate hand stitch. Bias is great for this piece, since, when you bend your thumb, the movement is comfortable, and the tension lines bounce back, without leaving permanent strain marks on your gloves.

- The thumb is a bit tall for me, so I will alter it down when I cut the real thing.

By the way, my day got a whole lot better - some new and exciting things are happening for my family!